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<\/a>Countersinking the rudder wedge<\/p><\/div>\n
The first step in countersinking the TE wedge was drilling the holes to final size. I borrowed a technique for this from my friend Jim Piavis, match-drilling and clecoing the wedge to a flat surface – in this case, the hollow-core door I use as a work surface. Match-drilling into the door leaves a nice, accurate hole for the coutersink pilot. That, in turn, helps keep the countersink from chattering and chewing up the hole.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Dave’s pudgy hand. Note the wedding ring!<\/p><\/div>\n
Here’s the end result. The process worked, and the wedge looks good. Another test-fit of the skins and wedge was encouraging. Next step – match drilling one rudder skin to a piece of aluminum angle per Vans’ instructions. I fastened the angle to one edge of the work surface for some added stability. Once assembled and prosealed, the trailing edge will be held straight when clecoed to the angle.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Drilling the wedge<\/p><\/div>\n
The end result will look something like this…except with both rudder skins clecoed to the angle.<\/p>\n
<\/a>The wedge of doom<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
After a brief interruption for a wedding (Ellen’s and mine!), it was back to the rudder. This weekend’s tasks were to countersink the trailing edge wedge, prepare a piece of angle stock to hold the trailing edge straight, and finally, … Continue reading