Riveted F-705 bulkhead

With the firewall riveted, I started in yesterday on the F-705 rear spar carrythrough bulkhead. First order of bidness was to hit some of the previously-primed parts with a coat of the interior color – Sherwin Willams JetFlex WR “Pepperdust”. The only parts I painted were the bulkhead top and seat stops, since it’ll be difficult to paint under some of those parts once they’re assembled. JetFlex WR (water reducible) goes on kinda rough, but smooths out nicely when dry. And it’s a whiz to clean up after painting – just use water!

Here’s the bulkhead top with seat stops riveted on after painting…

Riveted F-705 bulkhead top

…and here’s the whole bulkhead with most of the rest of the rivets set. I’ll have a few rivets remaining to do, but I can get those in between other work.

Riveted F-705 bulkhead

Firewall rivets

Over the last few days I did just about all the riveting on the firewall. As is sometimes the case, some of Vans rivet callouts were quite short – especially on the steel gussets at the firewall corners. Rivets of the correct length were easy enough to squeeze, but I wasn’t always able to maneuver the squeezer to get every rivet. That left me with back-riveting some of the tough-to-reach rivets. Sometimes a little “english” was required with the back-riveting set, but everything turned out ok.

Firewall rivets

Firewall rivets

Here’s the completed firewall, with all rivets done except a couple I’ll have to buck by hand with Ellen’s help.

Firewall rivets

Firewall and F-705 parts primed

With all the longeron hassle behind me, I got back to finishing up prep and priming of the firewall angles and F-705 rear spar attach bulkhead parts. I decided to try a new primer on these parts, since they’ll be top-coated with interior paint. The new primer is chromate-free, which makes it a little easier to handle. It’s also available locally, which is a bonus. It’s not as durable as the fluid-resistant primer I’ve used, but it’s a lot safer.

Firewall and F-705 parts primed

Seatbelt anchors

The rear spar bulkhead also serves as an attach point for the seatbelt anchors. The anchors come pre-fabricated, but they need to be match-drilled to the spar carrythrough/bulkhead channel assembly. This gets done by laying out a mounting hole on one bracket, bolting it to the spar carrythrough, then bolting on the mating seat belt bracket clamped around a 3/16″ spacer. The entire assembly gets aligned at right angles to the carrythrough and clamped in place. The mating bracket then gets match-drilled to the bulkhead.

One picture is worth a thousand words…

Drilling a seat belt bracket

Here are all the seatbelt anchors in place.

Seat belt brackets mounted

One last hurdle to tackle on the longerons

One last hurdle to tackle on the longerons. Each one has to have a slight downward bend forward of the canopy deck in order to mate correctly with steel attach angles on the firewall. Compared to the “big bends”, these are easy – just a single downard bend to put the forward end of the longeron a specified distance below the canopy deck. Got ’em both done, and the longerons are complete – for now…

Longerons complete!

Canopy decks

I’ve been laid up with a cold for the last week or so, but managed to get the canopy decks match-drilled to the longerons. This is a nice little test of whether the longerons are bent correctly, as the curves cut into the decks have to match the longerons to fit correctly. Here’s one deck fitted to the longeron…the bend matches nicely!

Canopy deck fitting

The decks actually overhang the longeron by 0.032″, so I clamped a piece of 0.032″ sheet stock to the longeron as a reference. Where necessary, I also clamped some scrap angle to hold the longeron flush to the deck during drilling.

Canopy deck fitting

Here’s one longeron and deck match-drilled…the other one looks the same.

Canopy deck fitting

Finished trimming the aft ends of the longerons

Another big day of progress, I finished trimming the aft ends of the longerons. There are two cuts to be made on each longeron – one to allow the VS vertical spar to fit flush against the F-712, and one to accomodate the F-711’s HS attach bars. First step is to trim the longeron aft end to accomodate the VS spar. Here’s one cut completed on the right longeorn

Longeron end trimmed

I used the F-714 aft deck to make sure that the side cutouts were properly aligned.

Longeron clamped to aft deck

Here are the HS bar cutouts marked, and drilling/cutting is in progress on the left longeron.

Longeron side cut

After a lot of cutting, filing and sanding, the cuts are complete…

Longeron end cuts done

Both longerons bent!

As often happens on any project, the second part takes less time than the first…and that’s what happened with the left longeron. Trying to follow my own don’t-do-it-all-at-once gudance, I was working very slowly over the course of a Saturday. But everything was working out, and before I knew it I had a correctly-bent left longeron.

Just to make sure I wasn’t imagining things, I clamped the left longeron to the right. They match each other within 1/16″, so I think I’m in good shape here.

Both longerons bent!

With both “big bends” made, I flipped the clamped longerons around and measured/marked their aft ends for some trimming that needs to be done so they fit in and around the tail bulkheads. These cuts made me a little nervous since they’re being made on parts that I just spent a lot of time on while bending.

Right longeron bent!

A good day today…got the big bend done on the right longeron! Vans says that you can consider the longeron done when it matches the template within 1/16″…which this one does.

Right longeron bent!