Working on the F-704 center fuselage bulkhead assembly

No updates for the last three weeks, I was at Oshkosh for the entire week of the show. Lots of fun and very motivational, as always. I came back and started working on the F-704 center fuselage bulkhead assembly. There are a lot of small things that must be done to these bulkheads for them to be ready for installation. First step was drilling holes for the electrical conduits; not a hard task, but I double-checked the measurements before starting in with the Unibit. Came out fine!

Conduit holes in fuse bulkhead

The next step was to fit the left and right center section side angles to the bulkheads for match-drilling. Here they’re clecoed in place, but the close-tolerance bolts that will eventually hold the wing spars, muts be inserted so that the corresponding holes in the side angles are closely aligned.

Bulkeads clecoed for drilling

Skins riveted on right wing!

Halfway there on the wing skins…woohoo!

So why has it taken so long to get those damn wing skins riveted on? Some folks do solo bucking and shooting on the lower skins, but I’ve chosen to do this as a team. So Ellen and I do this work when we both have time, and when we don’t, I work on the fuse. But today we managed to complete the lower skins on the right wing.

We used a hybrid approach when riveting the skins. On the inboard skins we followed Vans’ instructions to the letter, riveting in a “chevron” pattern that leaves enough room at the front of the skin to reach up and buck the rear rib-to-skin and spar-to-skin rivets. But on the outboard skins we started out using the book approach, then switched to a bay-by-bay method for the outer part of the skin. Once we could gently peel back the skin, we reached in from the outboard end and did a rib, then the forward and rear spar-to-skin rivets that were outboard of the rib we just riveted. It’s really easier to do than to explain.

Skins riveted on right wing!

Oshkosh

I had a great time at Oshkosh, camped with Captain John, Rich Mileka, Dave Rogers and other EAA folks from Boston. Also got to hang out with my friend Jim Piavis who brought his new RV-7 to Oshkosh for the first time.

JP’s RV at Oshkosh

The RV formation flights were amazing! They surely put the warbird folks to shame…

RV formation flight

RV formation flight

More random parts prep on the firewall

More random parts prep on the firewall…dimpling the brake doubler and firewall itself. For some reason, I take a lot of satisfaction in a simple thing like fitting that little plate.

Fuel pump doubler

Dimpling the firewall…gotta make sure that the dimples go the right direction. I wouldn’t be the first builder to screw this up.

Dimple this side!

Dimpling done…looks good!

Firewall dimpled

I also finished countersinking all the stiffeners on the firewall’s back side. No problems, but no pictures.

The firewall is disassembled

The firewall is disassembled and I’m deburring parts. I’ve said it before…if you have a Dremel tool, you gotta have a #500 abrasive wheel for it. It’s a 1″ Scotchbrite 7A Medium wheel, and is the absolute berries for deburring in close quarters. Can’t always find ’em in the big box hardware stores, I find mine in the local neighborhood hardware stores. I’m sure you can order them online, too.

Fitting the recess

The next task for the firewall is fitting the recess that accommodates stuff hanging off the back. To put it bluntly, the fit of this part sucks – especially around the top. Apparently this is a common problem, some builders use a little “manual adjustment” with hammers and wood to improve the fit, others just do the best they can and accept a couple of sloppy holes at the top of the recess. I tried the manual adjustment route and had no success so I just drilled it in assembly with the firewall, making sure to drill from the side with the stiffeners so that those structural stiffener holes would remain unmolested. The result is a couple of slightly-egged holes in the recess, but it’s not structural – so I’m not gonna worry about it.

Firewall recess

Firewall recess

That finishes up, for now, the match-drilling required on the firewall.

Match-drilling the firewall components

Over the last two weeks I’ve been match-drilling the firewall components and fabricating a couple of additional brackets that bridge the firewall and fuselage floor stiffeners. There isn’t a lot of margin for error on these, and it’s easy to wind up with insufficient edge distance when match-drilling them to the existing stiffeners and gussets you see in the picture. I wasn’t happy with the first attempt, so I fabricated and re-drilled another pair of brackets – they turned out much better.

Fitting firewall parts

One other bit of fun is fitting this small doubler that reinforces brake line penetrations through the firewall.

Firewall brake doubler

Match-drilling the plate isn’t the problem, but drilling through stainless steel is. Follow Van’s guidance in the plans book and you’ll be fine, j ust remember to use slow drill speeds, and use boelube or some other cutting fluid when you drill. Also, use a Unibit for any hole larger than #30 – works like a champ and is less likely to leave burrs on the stainless. I also made sure to use the doubler as a backing plate, drilling through the stainless first and then the doubler – that also helped avoid burrs.

Firewall brake doubler

Slow progress

I’m making slow progress on getting the lower wing skins riveted on; I’ve chosen to do that work with a partner, even though it slows me down. So while I’ve had no riveting help, I decided to get started on the fuselage – specifically, on the firewall.

It’s a relatively easy place to start, all that’s necessary is a bit of plans study and some time to identify all the stiffeners, brackets and gussets that are required. The fit on some of these parts leaves a little to be desired, however.

Here’s one example where diagonal stiffeners nest into gusset at the upper firewall corners, all of which rest under steel brackets. Unfortunately, that little cutout in the gusset isn’t deep enough to allow that stiffener to fit correctly with prepunched holes in the firewall – so some adjustment is required. Vans’ plans say to tweak the end of the stiffener to fit but that would be too easy, wouldn’t it? To preserve edge distance on that part, I pulled out my trust Dremel tool and routed out the cutouts in the gusset. Problem solved, and I’ve kept an extra 0.0001 percent margin in the structure. I feel much better.

Fitting firewall parts

There are also a couple of 0.025″ shims that ride on top of those stiffeners. They took a few extra minutes to fabricate, no big deal. There’s also an extra stiffener that must be fabricated from 6061 angle. The stiffener itself is easy…finding the stock you’re supposed to cut it from is the challenge. There are three pieces of angle stock that could be used, just don’t choose the one that’s already cut to length for another part!

After getting the minutia squared away, I clecoed the firewall together – a nice bit of visual progress!

Firewall clecoed together

Declaring the ailerons complete

I spent most of my shop time during the last week installing the left aileron’s brackets , and getting both ailerons correctly fitted on the wing hinge brackets. As other builders have also experienced, the aileron hinge brackets on my wings had a slight list and I was concerned that this might interfere with aileron movement. But I was able to adjust the inboard/outboard position of the ailerons by adjusting spacers and washers on the aileron hinges – so there was no problem. Very cool!

Ailerons complete!

With that, I’m declaring the ailerons complete – for now.

Flat surface

The last major hurdle in the never-ending aileron saga was to put the left aileron on a flat surface, pull the blind rivets that secure the spar bottom and skins, and squeeze the end rib rivets. When I did this before I used an old hollow-core door, tweaked it with shims until it was flat, then laid the aileron on it and weighted it down with two heavy pieces of MDF. Worked ok, but it was a little too wiggly for my taste. But where else would I find a flat surface?

Well, it turns out that we just finished having our kitchen remodeled, and those new granite countertops looked like they would fill the bill. So I pulled out the trusty SmartLevel, checked ’em, and sure enough they were flat to within 0.1 degrees in all directions. For $8,000, they damn well ought to be.

So after breakfast today I cleaned all the kitchen crap off of those countertops and turned ’em into my temporary workbench. I plopped that aileron on the bar countertop, weighted it down, ran an air hose up the stairs from the garage through the den to the kitchen, grabbed my pop-riveting tool and pneumatic squeezer, and went to work.

Dave's $8,000 workbench

Man, those countertops worked like a champ – that aileron came out with no more than 0.1 degree of twist. I did as many rivets as I could up there – enough to lock the structure in place – then finished everything else up downstairs in the shop.