Double-flush rivets

I used Van’s recommended procedure for setting the trailing-edge rivets, with a few exceptions. First, I used the pneumatic squeezer to initially set rivets in the sequence recommended by the manual. Then I used the back-rivet set to get the shop heads parallel with the trailing edge. And finally, I used a swivel flush set on the manufactured side make each shop head as flush as possible with the skin. The last two steps were done to groups of four or five rivets at a time – hit one side with the back-rivet set, then flip the rudder and finish up with the flush set.

Trailing edge, left side

And the result? The trailing edge was straight to within 0.04 inches, which beats Van’s requirement of 0.1″. If you sight down the edge you’ll see some very minor pillowing or waves in the edge, but overall I’m satisfied. And there was much rejoicing. Yea.

Trailing edge finished!

Go Jackets!

I couldn’t stand it any more…it was time to get that trailing edge started. I had a 6 oz. cartridge of Proseal sitting around, mixed it up and popped it into the Semco pneumatic dispenser. The Semco gun didn’t work as well as expected, but it worked enough to get the wedge Proseal’d.

A curing wedge

Here’s the trailing edge setting up. The basement is somewhat cold – 55-60 degrees – and I left the trailing edge in this pseudo-jig for five days. We were gone for most of that time.

Bring on the proseal!

Almost ready to proseal the trailing edge together – here’s the rudder with upper and lower ribs mostly riveted, plus that spiffy wedge with all those beautiful countersunk holes.

The new yoke from Avery arrived yesterday afternoon, and was put to use today riveting the left rudder skin to the spar. Much better results this time! I neglected to take any new pictures, so just look at the pictures above of the rudder clecoed together, and imagine that the clecos aren’t there.

Not much visual progress in the last few days. I’ve been troubleshooting problems with my 4″ thin-nose yoke, which either because of the yoke or my lack of technique caused a bunch of slanted rivets when attaching the right rudder skin to the spar. A bunch of ’em needed to be drilled out – ugh. I also found out the hard way how much damage a rivet gun can do to 0.016″ skins – don’t ask. Definitely a low point in the project so far. Solutions? I ordered a 3″ regular yoke from Avery to get some of those harder-to-reach rivets that don’t require the 4″ no-hole yoke. In general, a shorter yoke is better – less deflection. Also talked with Cleaveland Tools and the gentleman who rebuilt my squeezer, both in an attempt to figure out what’s going on.

Whits’ autograph

We asked Whits to sign one of the rudder skins before starting the close-out process.

Rudder counterweight assembled

Next step – riveting the counterbalance skin and main rudder skins together. Here’s everything fitted together prior to riveting the top rib in place.

Bottom rudder frame

Started riveting the rudder frame together tonight…the frame goes together pretty easily. Van’s calls out optional LP4-4 blind rivets to attach the rudder brace and control horn. I wouldn’t know how to buck solid rivets here, or even squeeze them unless there’s some way to get a longeron yoke in there. Perhaps it’s possible to change the construction order and rivet the brace and horn together first. Whatever…

A fuzzy rudder counterweight

I also riveted the counterweight skin to its lower rib and then to the spar. That was enough for one day!

More carcinogenic primer

Despite a cold day (4C/40F) the primer went on well. I found some instructions on the web for my cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun, and they helped quite a bit.

Mmmm…primer!

And here are the rest of the primed parts. It’s time to rivet!

Touch-n-Prep pens rock!

Got the remaining rudder parts prepped and alodined tonight. Now it’s time to mix up some more primer…ugh.

After a brief interruption for a wedding (Ellen’s and mine!), it was back to the rudder. This weekend’s tasks were to countersink the trailing edge wedge, prepare a piece of angle stock to hold the trailing edge straight, and finally, debur and dimple the skins.

Countersinking the rudder wedge

The first step in countersinking the TE wedge was drilling the holes to final size. I borrowed a technique for this from my friend Jim Piavis, match-drilling and clecoing the wedge to a flat surface – in this case, the hollow-core door I use as a work surface. Match-drilling into the door leaves a nice, accurate hole for the coutersink pilot. That, in turn, helps keep the countersink from chattering and chewing up the hole.

Dave’s pudgy hand. Note the wedding ring!

Here’s the end result. The process worked, and the wedge looks good. Another test-fit of the skins and wedge was encouraging. Next step – match drilling one rudder skin to a piece of aluminum angle per Vans’ instructions. I fastened the angle to one edge of the work surface for some added stability. Once assembled and prosealed, the trailing edge will be held straight when clecoed to the angle.

Drilling the wedge

The end result will look something like this…except with both rudder skins clecoed to the angle.

The wedge of doom